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The Bund, Shanghai
上海Shànghǎi

Shanghai Travel Guide: The Bund, Pudong, Old Lanes

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The best view in Shanghai costs 2 yuan: the public ferry across the Huangpu, from the 1920s banks of the Bund to the towers of Pudong.

A short story about Shanghai in Mandarin, with English alongside. The beginner version needs no Chinese. Jump to the story

A short history of Shanghai

A river port and cotton town until 1843, when the treaty ending the First Opium War opened it to foreign trade. Britain and America ran the International Settlement, France a concession beside it. By the 1930s it was one of the world’s largest cities.

In 1990 Pudong, then fields and warehouses, was opened for development.

The Bund

外滩 Wàitān

1.5 km of riverfront banks, hotels and a customs house from the 1890s to the 1930s, on a raised promenade. Across the water: the Oriental Pearl, Jin Mao, the World Financial Center and the 632-metre Shanghai Tower, China’s tallest.

The lit-up Pudong skyline at night across the Huangpu River, with the Oriental Pearl Tower on the left and the Shanghai Tower on the right
Pudong from the Bund after dark.Lloyd Tudor, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A commuter ferry crossing the grey Huangpu River with the Lujiazui towers behind it
The ferry, still how a lot of people get across.Balon Greyjoy, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Go twice: by day for the buildings, after dark for the lit towers.

How to visit the Bund

  1. 1

    Book a tower slot first

    The Bund is free; book only a tower deck, on Trip.com or Klook with a foreign card and your passport (shown at the door). Shanghai Tower is about 180 yuan; the World Financial Center costs less for as good a view. Book sunset a day ahead.

  2. 2

    Start at the north end

    Start at Waibaidu Bridge, by the old Astor House hotel. Stop at the clock-tower customs house and the former HSBC bank.

  3. 3

    Take the ferry, not the tunnel

    From Jinling East Road pier to Dongchang Road in Pudong in a few minutes. Pay by transport card or phone. Skip the sightseeing tunnel.

  4. 4

    Come back after dark

    The skyline lights up at dusk. Walk back along the Bund and eat in the streets behind it.

Weekend and holiday evenings are packed; go on a weekday.

Things to do in Shanghai beyond the Bund

Lujiazui is one stop on Line 2, Yu Garden a walk south, the lanes a metro ride west.

Lujiazui 陆家嘴

Lùjiāzuǐ

Looking down from the Shanghai Tower over Lujiazui's skyscrapers and the bend of the Huangpu River
Lujiazui from the Shanghai Tower.Balon Greyjoy, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Pudong’s district of towers and malls. Go for a deck view.

The lane houses 石库门

shíkùmén

A row of two-storey brick shikumen lane houses in Shanghai with carved stone gateways and shopfronts below
Shangxian Fang, a lane of shikumen houses.Livelikerw, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Stone-gated terraced houses; longtang are the lanes between them. By the 1940s more than half the city lived in them; most have gone since 1990. Tianzifang and Xintiandi are now shops and bars. For lived-in lanes, walk the old French Concession (1849–1943) around Wukang Road.

Yu Garden and the old town 豫园

Yùyuán

The Huxinting teahouse standing in a pond on zigzag bridges, with the Shanghai Tower rising behind the old roofs
The Huxinting teahouse at Yu Garden.King of Hearts, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A Ming-dynasty garden of rockeries, ponds and pavilions inside a snack bazaar, with the famous zigzag bridge. Go at opening; by midday it is packed.

What to eat in Shanghai

Xiaolongbao 小笼包

xiǎolóngbāo

Thin-skinned pork dumplings full of hot soup: bite, sip, eat. Nanxiang, in the Yu Garden bazaar, has the famous queue.

Shengjianbao 生煎包

shēngjiānbāo

The fried breakfast cousin: thicker dough, crisp bottom, same soup.

Scallion oil noodles 葱油拌面

cōngyóu bànmiàn

Noodles in soy sauce and slow-fried spring-onion oil. Cheap and everywhere.

Plan your trip to Shanghai

Best time to visit Shanghai

  1. JanMixed
  2. FebMixed
  3. MarMixed
  4. AprGood
  5. MayGood
  6. JunMixed
  7. JulMixed
  8. AugMixed
  9. SepGood
  10. OctBest
  11. NovBest
  12. DecMixed
Best months for Shanghai: Oct, Nov.

Plum rains run mid-June into July; August is hot and peak typhoon season; winter is grey and damp. Avoid Golden Week (1–7 October) and Chinese New Year.

Getting to Shanghai

  • Suzhou by train25 min
  • Hongqiao Airport by train35 min
  • Pudong Airport by train1 h
  • Hangzhou by train1 h
  • Beijing by train4½ h

Pudong Airport: maglev to Longyang Road in about 8 minutes, then Line 2. Hongqiao Airport is on Line 2, beside Hongqiao station, where most fast trains stop.

Getting around Shanghai

The metro covers everything, with English signs. Tap a contactless Visa or Mastercard, or use the Alipay transit code (buses too). Didi works in English with a foreign card.

Link your card to Alipay or WeChat Pay before you arrive. Small noodle shops rarely have English menus.

Where to stay in Shanghai

People’s Square and East Nanjing Road: a walk from the Bund, on Line 2 to both airports. The French Concession is leafier, with better food. Lujiazui goes quiet after dark.

Shanghai in three days

  1. Day 1. The Bund from the north end, the ferry to Pudong, a tower at sunset.
  2. Day 2. Yu Garden at opening with xiaolongbao, then the French Concession lanes.
  3. Day 3. A fast train from Hongqiao to Hangzhou for West Lake, or Suzhou for its gardens.

Questions about visiting Shanghai

Is the Bund free?

Yes, day and night. You only pay to go up a Pudong tower.

How do you get from the Bund to Pudong?

The 2-yuan ferry from Jinling East Road pier, or Metro Line 2, one stop from East Nanjing Road to Lujiazui.

Do you need cash in Shanghai?

Almost never. Alipay and WeChat Pay take foreign cards; keep a little cash for stalls.

Can you visit Hangzhou as a day trip from Shanghai?

Yes. Fast trains from Hongqiao reach Hangzhou East in 45 minutes to an hour; metro Line 1 to West Lake takes about 20 more.

Is Shanghai easy to visit without Chinese?

One of the easiest in China: English on the metro and in Didi. Small restaurants are the gap.

Chinese you’ll see in Shanghai

On the signs, the ferry and the metro map.

上海Shànghǎi
Shanghai, "on the sea"
外滩Wàitān
the Bund, literally "outer bank"
浦东Pǔdōng
Pudong, east of the Huangpu
黄浦江Huángpǔ Jiāng
the Huangpu River
轮渡lúndù
ferry
码头mǎtou
pier
弄lòng
lane; on address plates, "100弄" is lane 100
地铁dìtiě
metro
小笼包xiǎolóngbāo
soup dumplings
出口chūkǒu
exit

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