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West Lake, Hangzhou
杭州Hángzhōu

Hangzhou Travel Guide: West Lake, Lingyin, Longjing

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Hangzhou is 45 minutes from Shanghai by fast train, and West Lake is free and open all night. Spend day one on the 2.8 km Su Causeway, then sunset on the west shore.

A short story about Hangzhou in Mandarin, with English alongside. The beginner version needs no Chinese. Jump to the story

A short history of Hangzhou

Hangzhou was the Southern Song capital from 1138 to 1276, probably the world’s largest city. The causeways, islands and named views date from then.

The shallow lake silts up and has been dredged for a thousand years; the Su Causeway is the mud dug out in 1089. UNESCO listed it in 2011.

West Lake

西湖 Xī Hú

Six square kilometres, with hills on three sides and the city on the fourth. The Bai Causeway in the north is short and busy. The Su Causeway, built under the poet-governor Su Shi, runs 2.8 km over six bridges: an hour’s walk, and the best thing to do here.

Leifeng Pagoda on a wooded hill across West Lake at dusk, with orange clouds above
Leifeng Pagoda across the lake at dusk.Yinweichen, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The tree-lined path of the Su Causeway in winter, with the lake visible on either side
The Su Causeway.钉钉, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

How to visit West Lake

  1. 1

    Nothing to book; start early

    Start at the Broken Bridge in the northeast before the tour groups, and walk the Bai Causeway to Solitary Hill.

  2. 2

    Walk the Su Causeway

    Walk south over the six bridges; bikes have been banned on both causeways since 2018. In summer, see the lotuses at Quyuan Garden.

  3. 3

    Take a boat to the island

    From the south end, boats run 20 minutes to Three Pools Mirroring the Moon, the island on the one-yuan note.

  4. 4

    End on the west shore for sunset

    Leifeng Pagoda (rebuilt 2002) is the sunset view. The picture is from the shore, not the top.

Weekends and holidays are packed; go on a weekday.

Things to do in Hangzhou beyond the lake

The tea hills and Lingyin are west of the lake, the canal north.

The Longjing tea villages 龙井村

Lóngjǐng Cūn

White farmhouses of Longjing village with terraced tea bushes climbing the green hills behind
Longjing village and its tea terraces.Niklas Dougherty, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Longjing, “Dragon Well”, is a village and China’s most famous green tea. Longjing village and Meijiawu are 15 to 30 minutes by taxi from the west shore. Walk the terraces and drink a glass in a farmhouse.

Lingyin Temple and Feilai Feng 灵隐寺 · 飞来峰

Língyǐn Sì · Fēilái Fēng

The yellow-walled Huayan Hall of Lingyin Temple above stone steps, with visitors and an incense burner in front
A hall of Lingyin Temple.Siyuwj, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
A seated Buddha carved into the grey limestone of Feilai Feng, with smaller figures in niches beside it
One of the Feilai Feng carvings, outside the temple gate.Jakub Hałun, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A 4th-century Buddhist temple in a wooded valley. On the way in, Feilai Feng is a limestone hill with hundreds of Buddhas carved in the 10th to 14th centuries. Free since December 2025, with a booked slot. On weekends a shuttle replaces taxis for the last stretch.

The Grand Canal at Gongchen Bridge 拱宸桥

Gǒngchén Qiáo

The three stone arches of Gongchen Bridge over the Grand Canal in Hangzhou, with modern towers behind
Gongchen Bridge, where the canal ends.Zhangzhugang, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Gongchen Bridge (1631) marks the southern end of the 1,800 km Grand Canal. Take the water bus up; come back at dusk, when the warehouses are lit.

What to eat in Hangzhou

Dongpo pork 东坡肉

Dōngpō ròu

Pork belly braised in soy, rice wine and sugar, named after Su Shi of the causeway.

West Lake fish in vinegar 西湖醋鱼

Xīhú cùyú

Poached grass carp in sweet-and-sour sauce. The signature dish, and the most argued about.

Longjing shrimp 龙井虾仁

Lóngjǐng xiārén

River shrimp stir-fried with fresh Longjing leaves. Light and a little bitter.

Plan your trip to Hangzhou

Best time to visit Hangzhou

  1. JanMixed
  2. FebMixed
  3. MarGood
  4. AprBest
  5. MayBest
  6. JunMixed
  7. JulMixed
  8. AugMixed
  9. SepGood
  10. OctBest
  11. NovGood
  12. DecMixed
Best months for Hangzhou: Apr, May, Oct.

Spring brings the tea harvest; osmanthus flowers from late September (smell it at Manjuelong). June has the plum rains, July and August heat and lotuses. Avoid Golden Week (1–7 October) and Chinese New Year.

Getting to Hangzhou

  • Hangzhou East station by train20 min
  • Shanghai Hongqiao by train1 h
  • Xiaoshan Airport by train1 h
  • Beijing South by train4½ h

Most fast trains stop at Hangzhou East; metro Line 1 runs to Longxiangqiao by the lake. Xiaoshan airport, 30 km east: Line 19 with one change, or a taxi.

Getting around Hangzhou

Walk the lake; for the hills, use Didi. Shared bikes unlock in Alipay once your passport is verified.

Alipay and WeChat Pay take foreign cards. Small-restaurant menus are rarely in English.

Where to stay in Hangzhou

The east shore around Hubin and Longxiangqiao: lake, metro and late restaurants. Hefang Street, just south, is the other easy base. For quiet, a tea-village guesthouse.

Hangzhou in two days

  1. Day 1. The Broken Bridge and Bai Causeway early, the Su Causeway, a boat to the island, sunset facing Leifeng Pagoda.
  2. Day 2. Lingyin and Feilai Feng in the morning (booked), Longjing village for tea, the canal water bus to Gongchen Bridge at dusk.

Questions about visiting Hangzhou

Is West Lake free?

Yes, and it never closes. The island boats and Leifeng Pagoda charge.

Can you cycle around West Lake?

Yes, about 15 km on the shore roads. Bikes are banned from the Su and Bai causeways; use the Yanggong Causeway.

Do you need to book Lingyin Temple?

Yes. Entry is free; book a slot with your passport on the “Hangzhou Lingyin Feilai Peak” mini-program in Alipay or WeChat. Slots open at 8 am, seven days ahead.

Is Hangzhou worth a day trip from Shanghai?

For the lake, yes: an early train, both causeways, back for dinner. Lingyin and the tea hills need a second day.

When is the new Longjing tea picked?

From mid to late March. Tea picked before Qingming (early April) costs the most. Taste before you buy.

Chinese you’ll see in Hangzhou

At the station, around the lake and at the temple gate.

杭州东站Hángzhōu Dōngzhàn
Hangzhou East station
地铁dìtiě
metro
出口chūkǒu
exit
西湖Xī Hú
West Lake
苏堤Sū Dī
the Su Causeway
码头mǎtóu
pier, where the boats leave
雷峰塔Léifēng Tǎ
Leifeng Pagoda
灵隐寺Língyǐn Sì
Lingyin Temple
预约yùyuē
booking, reservation
龙井茶Lóngjǐng chá
Dragon Well tea

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